Daily Archives: November 6, 2012

The three people I met in Varanasi

Ok so the train is apparently running 1 hour late so we are not being picked up until 9pm from here. The others have gone down to Assi Ghat but I stayed here. Feeling a bit overwhelmed by it all and in need of a bit of peace,quiet and contemplation. I thought I’d capture something about some of the people we have met because really they are the most amazing part of our trip so far.
First of all Prem our guide yesterday. He is a Regional guide who is allowed to work freelance. He is married with two children and probably in his late 30s. He speaks extremely good English and is a local of Varanasi having attended the University we went to yesterday. His degree was in physics which he was very proud of but became a tour guide presumably either because he couldn’t find a job in the physics field or because it paid better. He had then had to take numerous exams to get a job as a Regional guide. Good fellow.
Next we met Raj. This was yesterday when were going to another cafe called The Open Hand. Raj is a postcard seller. He is a lad of about 16 who has a badly disfigured face and contorted feet that kind of face the wrong way. His spot is clearly outside the cafe and we watched from the balcony where we had our cappuccino and muffin as he approached every single European person who came and went to try and sell them a few postcards. He worked really hard chasing people up the street but didn’t seem to get much success. In between he rested in what looked like a specially adapted tricycle. So when I went out I decided to buy some cards from him. Enid told me I had to barter him down so I did. But really I can’t be bothered with all that so I bought 2 cards for £1 which, from the smile on his face and little snigger, he clearly thought he’d done rather well on. Good lad.
Last but not least we met lots of children down by the ghats. These kids live in such squalor and poverty you can’t imagine. Some of them have to beg for money,some were playing with makeshift kites in the mud. All of them smile when Jane or Joyce gives them a sweety. But the boy who stood out was one who came up to us this morning right at the end of our walk along the ghats. He was dressed in brightly coloured t shirt and shorts and he was about 10. His hair was shiny and clean and he said to us in the most perfect English “Excuse me madam. Which country is it that come from? Oh England- v nice. London or Manchester? Do you have any English pounds? I would like to take one home to my room , I collect them. No? Do you have any rupees? No? Ok then do you have any candy? Thank you very much- where is this made? Oh England- v good. Perhaps you could bring me an English pound later”. We didn’t catch his name but his broad smile and perfect manners certainly made a huge impression. We hope he is able to go to school and that perhaps one day he’ll be able to put his English to good use , go to University and become a tour guide. Good boy.

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Night Train to Agra

So just another quick update today as we’re still in Varanasi waiting now until its time for us to be picked up and taken to the railway station for our overnight train to Agra. We’ve had a relaxed day today walking the ghats and the streets of Varanasi. It’s been the hottest day so far today certainly up in the 80s so it was interesting to read that there’s been snow back home!
We took a tuk tuk ride to the Brown Bread bakery which we’d been told was v good on Trip Advisor again. The driver started taking us down the back alleys and we’d also heard that this is a favourite scam of the old muggers of Varanasi so we made him take us back to the main road and went instead to the Bread of Life cafe. It was a good place and we had nice bread, soup, Chinese etc . The chocolate cheesecake here was freshly made and v yummy.
So……next stop the overnight train. It should be an interesting experience although the nice American couple we met in the hotel told us to really lower our expectations. They weren’t that high to start with!
So next update from Agra as I suspect there won’t be any Wifi on the train. Do you think that’s what they meant by lowering our expectations?

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