Daily Archives: October 21, 2014

What else is there to do in Chengdu?

Once we arrived back in the city it was still quite early and as we had not eaten all day we decided to venture out again into the big city. First stop was the brand new shopping mall near our hotel just to have a look really. Once inside we explored the 7 shiny new floors of this place only to find that the majority of the shops were actually empty. It did, however, have a cinema, a handful of restaurants, a fitness centre and even a big ice skating rink.
On the ground floor there were more shops and we had a mooch around Muji and then C&A. Joyce was very excited to see that the latter’s brand name ‘Clockhouse’ was still in use. Once we’d had enough of this we found Pacific Coast Coffee house which looked just like a Starbucks and decided to go in (yes- there are plenty of the real Starbucks but not seen a Costa yet).By now I was starting to have serious Carb withdrawal symptoms and so indulged in a good cappuccino and slice of walnut and caramel cake. We also enjoyed a bit of an Internet interlude as this seemed to be very much what all the other young people were doing.
Right, now we’d eaten it was time to find somewhere to have dinner! We were walking down a really busy street and we soon realised that there must be something going on at the stadium..a concert or something. The only restaurants we could find were fast food places and we didn’t fancy those much. We were just about to give up and entertain having dinner in the Holiday Inn’s sterile restaurant, when we stumbled across a very lively side street with lots of tables outside packed with young diners. One particular place was REALLY loud and buzzing and we poked our noses in and realised it was one of the local specialty ‘Hotpot’ restaurants. Ah now this was the place for us so in we went.
This Sichuan speciality is not like your Lancashire Hotpot back home (Mike, you are right…and we’d already tried this before your recommended it!) and guess what? There were absolutely no other Westerners in here. Luckily, they had a nice young man to serve us who spoke some English and he explained what we had to do.
Basically, here you all sit around a wooden table which has a gas ring sunk into the middle of it. This is used to heat a very large metal pot of water which has an inner part full of dirty hot water and an outer part which is full of oil containing hundreds of chillies and Sichuan peppercorns. Next you fill a small bowl with a can of sesame oil , some chopped coriander and some salt and what looked like Parmesan cheese but presumably it wasn’t (Jane says it was garlic). Then the nice boy makes suggestions of things off the menu that you’d like to cook in the Hotpot. We chose mushrooms, beef, pork, potatoes and tofu strips. Whilst this all cooked we ate some of the side snacks such as quails eggs and some little fried bits which were a bit of a mystery but tasted very good. At one point a very drunk man came up and shouted ‘Hallo!’ and then rambled on a bit in Chinese before leaving with his mates who all pointed at our fried snacks and tittered. Now what did that mean do you think? Best not to ask….
Once cooked you then dip the bits in the marinade bowl you’ve made and scoff them. What was it like then I hear you ask? Well…….it was ok actually. I don’t think I’ve converted to Tofu just yet and all the other bits that went in the hot oil part tasted very hot and dry. The bits cooked in the less spicy middle part tasted rather bland in comparison. All of this was washed down with beer and in Jane’s case a very, very large glass stein of beer! Joyce hardly ate anything that night and says she really did not enjoy it.
Ah well..the next day we had our final day in Chengdu or in fact we had another long drive to see the Lashan or ‘Da Fu’ Buddha which is the worlds tallest sitting Buddha at 71 metres. We had a 20 mins boat trip with lots of Health and Safety issues to see this and it was pretty impressive carved out of the rocks. Then we had a walk up the worryingly named ‘small mountain’ to get to the top of the Buddhas head. It was by now very hot and sweaty so you can imagine how impressed we were when we heard that there was a queue of 1.5 hours to climb down the steps to the Buddhas feet. It was ridiculously crowded with tourists all of whom were Chinese except us!
Much to Elena’s relief, I think, we said we couldn’t be bothered to wait and instead would visit the Buddhist temple. Here it was the normal incense and oil burning madness.
That night we returned to Chengdu for our last night. We followed Elena’s advice and visited a part of the city called ‘Narrow and Broad Alley’. This was a really lovely pedestrianised area full of little shops, bars and smart places to eat. We found a French Patisserie and stood ogling the beautiful cakes in the window when the French chef came out and started describing them all to us. Well of course we couldn’t resist this and so we each ordered one of them and then sat at a table outside eating our chosen one with tea and coffee. I chose the Blue Plum tart which was slightly warmed and possibly the best thing I have ever tasted. Or was I just having one of those Carb moments again?
Once again, after pudding we the got a taxi across town to tonight’s chosen restaurant which was a very popular spot with a long queue outside. After a 30 mins wait we got in and it was a very poor experience indeed. Of course they didn’t speak English and had nothing on the menu in English. Luckily Elena had prepared us a new list of dishes we could try and so we showed this to the waitress. She seemed very unhappy in her work. There was a lot of shouting and tutting in this restaurant which I always think adds to the ambience.
When the food came it was also some of the worst we have eaten although some of it never did actually arrive, which was a blessing really as the portions were huge! What was the attraction of this popular place then? When the bill arrived it became clear as we paid just £10 to feed four of us including 3 very large local beers.
So there you have it. There’s plenty to do in Chengdu.

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Hands up who wants to feed the giant pandas?

Well of course we all do. So when we read that we had the opportunity, not just to see the pandas but to get involved, it was too good to miss. This promised to be the highlight of the trip for me and before you all start worrying (Mum)…I’m pleased to say it did not disappoint!
This is why we had come to Chengdu and, in fact, it seems that this is a big part of why the giant city of Chengdu is expanding at the rapid rate it is today-panda tourism. However, there had been a last minute change of plan to our itinerary before we left the UK. Instead of us being able to do our volunteering at the nearby Chengdu Panda Research Centre, we now had to travel two hours to get to the Bifengxia panda breeding centre in faraway Yaan. The reason for this is that they have actually just stopped the volunteer programme at Chengdu. We therefore had to get up at 5:30 in order to be at the centre for 8:30 ready to start work. We drove crazy fast up the motorway to Yaan and as views were just mostly rural China, typically grey and cloudy, we slept most of the way. It’s debatable at this point whether the driving here is worse than we experienced in India. I think the Chinese won as I just don’t ever remember driving anywhere this fast in India-the roads there aren’t up to it.
Eventually we left the motorway and then wound our way up a mountain road alongside a great gorge with a big brown river at the bottom of it. There was bamboo forest on either side. Then finally up at 1000metres we arrived at our place of work for the day.
We got dressed in our ‘digbies’ (or overalls for anyone who isn’t my brother) and then it was all aboard the golf cart to whizz us down to the enclosures where we’d be working. It was all a bit chaotic as no-one spoke much English and it all seemed to be being run by students. There was no health and safety briefing although we did have to sign some sort of indemnity. This seemed to be more focused on making sure we did our days work rather than anything else. Before we left the keepers office though we had our first sighting of a Giant Panda out of the back window. It was a gorgeous 5 year old who we would later help to clean out and feed.
We were split into teams to do our work and Joyce and Enid went of with a lady keeper and also ‘Amanda’ who was an international nursing student shadowing us for the day to improve her a English. Her grandad was one of the security guards at the centre. Jane and I stuck with Elena and one of the male keepers who gave us our orders.
Our jobs today were to clean three panda enclosures firstly by moving out the old bamboo, then sweeping up leaves and panda pooh and then replacing new bamboo. It was hot work and I must say it all felt vaguely pointless but the keeper told us that the pandas are very fussy and won’t eat day old bamboo. So there we go ..our work was important after all! Not sure about the bit where we had to sweep leaves off the slippery road though?
Whilst we were working the Chinese tourists were most amused by us and took our photos and shouted ‘Hallo!’. It wasn’t very busy (in fact this was a benefit of coming to Bifengxia as its much quieter than Chengdu) and once we’d finished our work we were allowed a break to go and stare at pandas. There are lots of different enclosures and at times we were surrounded by pandas. It was amazing to think that there are only 1800 left in the world. The pandas here all seemed happy enough and certainly seemed healthy and well cared for. Many of the pandas at Bifengxia have been re-located from elsewhere, particularly from Wolong Reserve which was badly affected by the serious Sichuan earthquake in 2008. It’s a shame they are not wild but at least these here are living in more or less their natural environment at this altitude. We were also told that they do try to get young pandas that they breed released back into the wild
Of course we took hundreds of photos but then it was time to get back to work. Now we had to prepare to feed the pandas. Whoopee! We had to cut up apples and carrots and panda biscuits into bite sized chunks. Then we went back to our individual panda’s indoor enclosures and fed them through the bars. I have to say this really moved me and when it came to my turn I nearly cried. They are so gentle as we handed them bits of biscuit and then apple and we got so close to them we could really look into their expressive eyes. Ahhhhhh.
Now our days work was done and we were free to wander around some of the other enclosures and stare at more pandas. We found year old pandas up great big trees and then a really young couple of pandas rolling around and playing. So cute as they made little meowing noises!
We also found the panda nursery and could see through a window two tiny pandas of about a month old. Unfortunately, they were fast asleep and in cots so we couldn’t really see them very well. I did arrive here hoping to be able to cuddle a panda but it is extremely expensive to do this (voluntary contribution) and now quite frankly, it felt a bit wrong. It was just amazing to have spent some time close to these beautiful creatures and on our way out we bought bagfulls of toy pandas that were quite happy for us to cuddle them.

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