Daily Archives: September 15, 2024

Fast Track to Paradise

Today we moved on from Garda to Lake Como. This is where I’d been looking forward to visiting but I was nervous that, like Bardolino, it might be over-crowded, too touristy and generally spoiled.

Well, I’m pleased to report that so far this is not the case and Lake Como has not disappointed . We were transferred here by taxi which took about 2.5 hours. It’s not a very scenic drive for most of the way through cities like Brescia, Bergamo and the outskirts of Milan. We drove along the Autostrada with views of the industrial heartland of Northern Italy.

However…..as soon as we reached Como on the road high, high above the lake the views were absolutely stunning and we drove along the panoramic road all the way to our hotel in Lenno which is on the western shore just across from Bellagio. Our driver was extremely Italian and fast but he got us here safely.

It has been a beautiful sunny day and we arrived at the hotel which is right down besides the lake and next to the ferry stop. The views are stunning and basically we appear to have landed in a sunny, sparkly paradise here. It is so different to Lake Garda surrounded by imposing mountains , everything feels like it is just an arms reach away.

We have had a lazy afternoon, wandering along for a gelato and the eating a fabulous meal here at the hotel on the terrace overlooking the lake as the sun went down. The most incredible sight was this light at the top of the opposite hill which just kept getting bigger and bigger. We didn’t realise what it was until we worked out that it was the moon rising above the mountain!

I think we are going to like it here very much but tomorrow we are off on our adventure to St Moritz v early so I’d better say Ciao for now!

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Garda to Bardolino Walk

The next day we woke up unreasonably early to make sure that we could catch the 8-55 ferry to Garda. The timetable was somewhat confusing with some up and down lines on it and in the event we didn’t stop at places listed and landed at Garda after only stopping at Sirmione first!

It was a dull day and cold enough even for me to have to wear long trousers and my fleece! We arrived in Garda at 10am and the place was only just opening upon this chilly Saturday. There was a market along the waterfront which we visited briefly before diving into the network of alleys in the old town. There were lots of tourist tut shops but we were most interested in those selling scarves. We’ve just read that the temperature in St Moritz, where we are due to visit later in the week, is going to be 0 degrees C!!!

Next we walked along the walkway beside the lake all the way to Bardolino. It’s only about a mile but was very very busy with German cyclists and various other joggers and walkers. It was all a bit hectic and Jane was not really feeling it walking at a strangely slow pace which I can’t cope with! Eventually, we stopped for a coffee and I did a little sketch of the lakeside scene. After this we passed a couple of big motorhome sites which were incredibly busy and cramped. Finally, we arrived in Bardolino where clearly all the bikers, campers and their dogs had been heading. It was ridiculously busy. This was Saturday and everyone had come here for lunch and their Aperol Spritz! It was over-whelming and we couldn’t wait to escape. Unfortunately, it turned out that our ferry tickets only allowed us to go straight to Desenzano, no changing ferries so we were stuck until 3-25 and it was only 1-30. This meant only one thing , we’d have to have lunch here in the madness! Jane quickly researched the best places for lunch and we soon found it. A very busy restaurant called La Cantinetta and had a nice lunch , Jane had dirty moules , and we were even given a freebie mini Aperol Spritz!! The time soon flew by and we were on the ferry home before we knew it. As we caught the ferry the sun had come out but as we got further offshore the wind really picked up and the white horses were rather impressive. It was around about now that I began to question my love of a ferry ride as we seemed to struggle to make any progress in the gusty wind!

Anyway, we made it back to Desenzano for about 5-10pm and made tracks upto the Castello where there was an exhibition of Andy Warhols work. It was quite a climb up to the castle and its tower but the exhibition of 50+ works was well worth it, with many loaned from private collections. The views from up here were also very rewarding in the evening light. After this, we strolled home and decided that Desenzano was a really lovely place to stay and definitely more Italian accents here. I was absolutely exhausted when we got back and took a dip in the heated pool in the garden beneath our room. It was perfect surrounded by pine and Cypress trees. A nice end to a bit of an odd day.

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