We are here and we are safe…..more tomorrow we have to get up at 5am!!
Carry on up the Ganges
A Flavour of New Delhi
Firstly just a quick update from yesterday. Interesting headlines in today’s Times of India.
1) City enveloped in smog ….which blotted out the sun through the day. It was described by one expert as a ‘toxic cocktail of poisonous gases’. Not just me then!
2) ‘1322 traffic rules breaches in 25 secs on the ring road.’ The question here of course is why on earth is this news?
So another day in smelly Delhi. Actually I have to say I am loving it! So today we had our driver and set off without a guide. The driver made some recommendations on top of what we asked to do and he started by taking us to the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir (temple). This was a lovely place, very colourful with the images of Hindu god such as Vishnu, Lakshmi, Ganesh (elephant) and Hanuman (monkey). As always lots of people and really lovely and respectful. It was a good stop.
Then we moved onto Lutyens Delhi. This was very surprising as we hadn’t seen any of this yesterday and so to suddenly find ourselves in these wide avenues, with beautiful fountains and gardens and enormous official buildings was v strange. Nobody is allowed to park so it was also devoid of all the people elsewhere. India Gate is in this same area and is very impressive with an eternal flame for soldiers killed in the WW1 et al.
It may not seem it the way I am writing this but today’s tour was much more leisurely. So next stop Humayuns Tomb. We were too late to go here yesterday and it really was worth coming back. It is similar in style to the Taj Mahal but built in red sandstone and no minarets. The gardens and water features are particularly beautiful and presumably far less crowded than the Taj will be. It was quite exciting at one point when a load of soldiers and security guards flooded in to the building to check the place out it appeared that a famous film star was having a tour! Meanwhile I missed all this as I was making friends again with all the school children.
Last stop was the Lodi Gardens featuring a rather disappointing pond.
On to lunch which was a place Jane had found on Trip Advisor at Connaught Place. It is called Sarvana Bharvan and had huge queues outside waiting to taste it’s southern Indian cuisine. The queue moved fast and in we went. We ordered the recommended Thali and it was excellent food.
Connaught Place itself is a horrible place and I think we experienced our first scammers here as everyone seemed to want us to follow them away from the obvious shops to the big emporium. Hmm I didn’t like it and persuaded the others to get in a pair of tuk tuks and come back to the sanctuary of our hotel. Phew.
Tomorrow we fly to Varanasi ..so we’ll have to see what the Internet scenario is there.
Honk Like Hell
We arrived in Delhi after a great flight having enjoyed our upgrade to World Traveller Plus. What a bonus that was nice big seats and a small, exclusive cabin away from the riff raff behind the curtain! It was about 2.30 in the morning local time and when we walked out of the airport it was like arriving in a Bollywood movie. The main thing that hits you is the smog – it was just like we when we left Brum- only after a while your throat begins to burn slightly, your eyes go red and your teeth feel rather gritty. Nice.
Enjoyed the mad drive to the hotel through said smog and soon experienced what driving is going to be like in India. It literally is a free for all and we saw everything we expected including overloaded trucks, rickshaws with no lights, buses on the wrong side of the road and of course the obligatory cow. Still no accidents so that was good.
Had to get up this morning early as our guided tour of Delhi started at 9.30 so met up with the girls over breakfast. Our hotel here is called Hotel Jivitesh and its quite smart but in a noisy area – the honking started at about 6.30 I’d say….
Then we met up with our guide for the day Vik. He’s been brilliant all day and along with our driver has really looked after us. So what did we get up to? We started at the Jamid Masjid Mosque which can accommodate 25,000 people praying at once. But whilst we were there it was rather pleasant, quiet and peaceful although you could still hear the honkers outside. We were provided with some suitable attire whilst visiting which looked remarkably like your grannies, colourful nylon housecoat. V fetching.
Then we went on a crazy cycle rickshaw ride around Chandni Chowk. This is where the various markets are and is a maze of narrow alleys completely rammed with people, tuktuks, bicycles and other rickshaws. It was outstanding and impossible to take it all in. We then did a v small walk through the spice market part and here the thing that strikes you is the amount of ‘stuff’ being transported about the place.
After this we went to the Red Fort and it was here that we discovered that the tables had been turned. Normally, there we are trying to take photos of interesting looking people. Without them noticing. But this time we had Indian people slyly taking pics of us and then after a while they gave up on that and just started asking to have photos with us. Jane in particular had numerous babies and children thrust at her during the day.
Of course we learned lots of useful information during the day like how many concubines the 3rd Mohgul emperor had. I think he is the same chap who married his wife when she was 15 but sadly died in childbirth at the age of 32. By then she had had 17 children. Crikey.
We had a nice lunch – we’re sticking to vegetarian curry options and then finished off our day at the Qutb Mina. This is an impressive minaret (as Enid says ‘the leaning tower of Delhi’) and other Hindu and Muslim ruins. We ran out of time to do some other stuff so we’ve arranged another half day drive tomorrow.
We’re on our way….
How exciting to see the count down turn to hours instead of days! We have arrived down here a the Sheraton Skyline at Heathrow. Horrible journey down in lashing rain through the Cotswolds and had a nightmare trucker on my tail. What was the name of that movie?
Joyce, one of our fellow travellers had some bad luck yesterday as she managed to lock herself out of the house and had to get the locksmith out. £95 later she was back in but thinks she needs to take up begging in Delhi. She should try living in London where Pete does- I’m sure that little incident set us back more like £250. Also Enid had to make an emergency dash to Debenhams to get a new suitcase after the zip broke on her old one. She always does try to pack too much.
Still on a brighter note Jane and I logged onto British Airways today only to find out that our seats had been upgraded. Happy days.
Some you win…some you lose.
We’ll be meeting up with Joyce and Enid over breakfast in Delhi as their flights go via Zurich. Obviously.
The packing is progressing well…..
Tiger Ban lifted
Good news sports fans…finally the Indian Judiciary have lifted the ban on tourists visiting the national parks for the purpose of viewing tigers. We had already decided not to change our itinerary so this is a little added bonus. The rules remain a little confusing in that viewing is now allowed in the outer 20% of the core areas.
Related articles
- Ban on tiger tourism in India lifted (telegraph.co.uk)
Hello ….is there anybody out there?
Welcome to my new blog. There is no great plan for this blog other than for it to replace the journals that I usually write to capture the magic moments on our trips.
It seemed a good place to start with our recent visit to Buckingham Palace. This was a birthday treat and it was very enjoyable. The changing of the guard is a surprisingly popular event with crowds of tourists- I mean CROWDS- watching the apparently randomn comings and goings. The audio tour is very good and the music when you enter very atmospheric – we felt right at home.
Anyway the first real stop for this blog will be India in November and after quite a bit of stress we now have our visas and just await news on the tiger ban. Typically the decision keeps getting put back and the next update is due on 3rd October….













