We woke up the next morning to wind and rain and so naturally this was the day to set off on another huge drive (80miles) around the wild and untamed Beara Penninsula. This involved getting back to the start point at Kenmare which, using the faster roads is still and hour and 15 mins away.
There is a handy leaflet describing the best places to stop but we were keen to do it at a slightly more relaxed pace today as there was no rush to get back for football.
We started near Bonane at the heritage centre which has been created by the locals. This involved a slog up a steep path until we reached the hill fort and stone circle. There were lots of wild flowers and ferns around and the views would have been nice if it hadn’t been so murky. One of the main attractions of the site was a huge, monolith standing stone at a jaunty angle. It turned out that this was just a trick of perspective in the promotional photos as it was actually only just above my knee. It was easy to image the little Stone Age village living up here but Jane wasn’t impressed by the site and rather wished she’d stayed in the car. At least they had a very modern portaloo with a very acceptable seat above the long drop!
Next stop proved very popular with all the cats. It was a boutique chocolate maker called Lorge Choclatier. They sold individual handmade chocolates and they tasted fab so we each bought a little selection for later.
Now we drove over the Cana Pass which was steep and narrow and at one point involved driving through 3 rock tunnels which was fun. We drove on down to Glengarriff which was busy with tourists and cyclists doing the Ring of Beara cycle ride. We all seemed to head to the one coffee stop, The Sugarloaf Cafe. Another splendid place where Jane and I shared a toasted sandwich and a cup of tea. I notice that the girls here had lovely Irish accents and were definitely enjoying the ‘craic’ as they worked.
After refreshments we walked down to the Blue Pool and the swimming spot but it wasn’t very blue today. The cute little boat that takes you over to the Italian gardens on Garnish Island. However, despite our ‘more relaxed approach’ , time was pressing on and so we gave this a miss instead starting our drive down the coast past pretty villages and beaches to Castletownbere. The pictures of this had promised pretty little fishing boats but actually the ones in the harbour were huge ocean going vessels , this is after all the centre of Ireland’s white fishing fleet. We had a look round the pretty coloured shops of the village and then were off again.
Now we headed along to the far end of the Penninsula at Dursley Head. It was a mad drive along tiny lanes across a patchwork of green fields with views over the, by now, sparkling sea! Yes the sun had once again come out. At Dursey Point there is a cable car over to Dursey Island which is a Heath Robinson affair. It was very windy and I had to give Jane strict instructions not to go on it.
By now it was 5-30 and people were getting rather jaded. Now we just needed to drive back along the north/west side of the Penninsula! This was an amazing drive winding through huge elephant rocks along the real Wild Atlantic Way! The waves below us were crashing away and sometimes with no barrier at the roadside to stop us from falling off! I absolutely LOVED it!
However, we were still along way from home and our thoughts turned to food. We sped through the colourful villages of Allihies and Eyries (their artists would have to wait for another day!). Stress levels were rising as we didn’t really want to return to Kenmare to eat.
Joyce googled a place called Helen’s Bar in a village called Kilmacklloge. We got there by driving along a narrow road which felt as if we’d be driving into a posh hotel. At the end we emerged by the sea and a pier and there was Helen’s Bar. It was very busy in the car park and in the bar itself. The chance of 6 of us just rolling up to eat seemed highly unlikely. However, the wonderful Helen herself soon found us 2 tables to join together and the food was absolutely amazing. Fish n Chips, Scallops in batter and chips and yummy homemade apple pie. All was well with the world once more. What a really special place.
Now only an hour and a half to get home and Joyce’s turn to drive!
Where shall we go to next? 