Posts Tagged With: Kerry

In Search of the Craic

Unfortunately, despite the hot tub soak I woke up the next day and was still broken and suffering from scenery overload. I’d not be driving anywhere today and instead Jane and I decided to stay and relax at the house. Meanwhile Adrian and Pam drove all the way to Mizen Head which was 2 and a half hours drive away! Joyce and Enid stirred themselves in the afternoon to drop into Tralee and enjoyed their visit to the Museum where they learned all about the ‘Rose of Tralee’ history and then joined a pipe and drum festival in the park. A fitting way for Joyce to spend her birthday.

Jane and I stayed at home and decided to watch ‘The Hunger Games. Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes- a strange choice considering Jane’s phobia of snrrrrs. We’d enjoyed the previous films but this one really is rather poor with some terrible dialogue and earnest acting.

The highlight of our day was when there was a ring at the doorbell. I went to the door to find a man hopping about from foot to foot dressed in dirty overalls, wellies and sporting a comedy ginger beard. He said ‘ A diddly diddly fiddly biddy diddy Dave , didly didly?’ I looked confused and said ‘er no’ not understanding anything he’d said except the word ‘Dave’. He repeated himself and pointed at his tractor parked up outside in the road. I still didn’t understand but figured maybe he was at the wrong house. I said ‘Er no, we are only renting this house’ ie I don’t know where Dave lives! He smiled and hopped off down the drive.

Anyway, the reason that Jane and I were reserving our energy, was that that evening we were determined to go out in search of the ‘craic’. This is that mythical Irish ‘good times’ where there’s a bit of fun, a jolly atmosphere and surely must involve some traditional Irish music. Jane had found a bar in the Grand Hotel in Tralee that served up Trad music and also a decent meal. We’d tried to book a table but been told that this wasn’t possible and that we should ‘just turn up at 6 o’clock and we’ll see ya right.’ So we did, Pam kindly dropping us all into town so that we could enjoy a glass of the ‘black stuff’ or in my case ‘red stuff’.

When we got there it didn’t look terribly grand from the outside but inside it was all wooden panels and very busy. We were given tables in the sunny window in a section where they’d only just finished serving smoothies and afternoon teas. The nice Irish Waiters kept referring to us as ‘Lads’ even though clearly Adrian was the only actual lad. Apparently, ‘lads’ is the Irish equivalent of ‘guys’. There was Euros footy on the TV in our section and Gaelic football in the noisy, main bar,

The ‘craic’ was building but then we found out that the music would not be starting until 10pm. It was highly unlikely that this group of lads would stay awake until then!

Gradually, the football fans and other diners left and we only had ‘Tommy the Toothless’ to enjoy the craic with. Jane tried really hard to engage with Tommy but the problem was that he was another fella who it was impossible to understand!

Getting fully into the swing of the evening I ordered a sherry trifle for pudding and by 9pm we all agreed that it was time to call it a night.

What I’ve learned then is that you perhaps can’t search out the craic – it just happens. I’m not sure it did happen at the Grand Hotel that Saturday evening in Tralee. But thinking about it, we’d already found it the night we stumbled upon lovely Helen’s Bar in Kilmakilloge. Now that was ‘Savage Craic- a great night all together with everyone on top form, the Guinness flowing and great stories/jokes/memories being made’.

Our journey home on Sunday was straightforward and it felt like we were the only people in Cork Airport. The Duty Free shop was full of lovely gift items and I stocked up on a lucky pen and lucky Irish Wishing Jar for Mum and lucky Irish chocolates and a penny whistle for me!

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John’s tour of the Dingle Peninsula

This, for me, was going to be the highlight of our trip to Ireland. Those other peninsulas were nice but today we had John with us to show us Dingle off the beaten track. John is our friend Joe’s Dad and he has lived in Ireland since 1995. He’d been to visit us in Broadway with Joe last time he was over and he’d talked about all the highlights of Dingle which I’d captured on a couple of post it notes.

He’d driven all the way over from Cork to take us out and he came in the car with Jane and me whilst the others followed along in the second car. Luckily the start of the Dingle Peninsula is much nearer at Bennerville Windmill. We were on the road by about 8:45 as John wanted to make the most of the day. He came armed with a huge book on the Archaelogical Survey of the Dingle Peninsula. Crikey.

As we started the drive we had sunny views of high mountains including Mountain Brendan which is the 2nd highest in Ireland. As we drove John told us how he’d originally fallen in love with Dingle , back in 1986 he’d lead some long cross peninsula walks for young offenders from Birmingham , about 50 in total. This had been their alternative to being locked up and had been life changing for many of them. Their route took them for 14 nights across the high mountain ridges and all the way to the Great Blasket Island where they’d plant their flags and pennants.

John warned us that he had two issues 1) glaucoma which means he can hardly see through his right eye and 2) he is hard of hearing. I was doing the driving with John as my co-pilot and his hearing issue meant that we were often shouting at cross purposes! John’s tour was a bit of a magical mystery. He had a very definite plan as to where we would go but was somewhat reluctant to reveal it. This meant I had to make sure that Adrian was following me in the 2nd car all the time. John also admitted to a third slight issue which was that although he used to live in Tralee, he hadn’t visited the Dingle Peninsula for ages! So his directions would involve some low key humming as we approached a possible turn or stop and then him suddenly shouting ‘TURN!’.

Our first stop was a non-descript lay-by where we were lead by John up a boggy lane towards some mountains. It wasn’t entirely clear how long we’d been walking but it soon became very clear that we were not all wearing footwear suitable for boggy hopping! We were up here to admire some Bronze Age rocks and rock art called ‘cup and ring’. John made it show up better by rubbing it with grass. This form of prehistoric art has been found all over Europe and also in Hawaii, Australia, India and Mozambique. It’s a small world.

To be honest though we were all a little bit more impressed by the view which was magnificent 180 degrees of mountain and 180 degrees of coastline.

Next we drove up the Connor Pass. In places it was one way and very narrow with over hanging rock face but there was at least a sturdy wall to keep us safe. At the top we had fine views over Harp Lake and down to the sea.

Then it was an easier drive down into Dingle Town. Dingle is a very nice feeling town and we parked up and had a little mooch around. It’s all very colorful again and John took us to see Dick Mack’s with its walk of the stars outside (Julia Roberts, Dolly Parton, Robert Mitchum) . Like other establishments here it’s a shop on one side and a bar on the other. This particular one is a cobblers! Dingle also has a number of nice galleries and a busy harbour where the little fishing boats now take tourists to see Fungi the Dolphin in the harbour.

We had a refreshment break here and then got on our way again. I made John do a detour down to Ventry Beach which is a huge expanse of sand. I’d read that we might find seaglass here but after 5 mins searching only Adrian found 1 piece!

From here we took the very scenic Slea Head drive and had great views over to the Great Blasket Islands, one of which looks like a sleeping giant. We stopped at Krugers Bar for a swift half as it is the most westerly pub in Europe! It was very traditional and had lots of pictures on the walls from when they filmed Ryan’s Daughter and more recently ‘Far and Away’ around here.

Next was one of those hum hum hum TURN moments as we swerved off up a grassy lane and through a gate where it said ‘no parking’. We parked and Pam was a little disappointed that the building remains were just that and not a set from Stars Wars. We had a little wander up and then down towards the cliffs. Here was a relic of the school building from Ryan’s Daughter. A lovely spot perched on the cliffs. Only John slid down the cliffs a bit to try a spot of fossil hunting….

Next we stopped at beautiful but wild Clogher Beach where the waves were crashing and swimming is permanently banned because of the dangerous cross currents. The weather had now gone off and it only added to the drama.

Next we went to the Gallarus Oratory but we didn’t want to pay the 5 euros entry fee so instead Jane and I followed John through his ‘private’ entrance through two gates and down another grassy lane enclosed by a gorgeous fuschia hedge! The building is a small arch shaped pod with dry stones walls. It was very cosy inside. It is apparently the only one of its kind and no one really knows when it was built or why.

By now we were all fading again and we drove back along the lovely lanes which are lined with beautiful hedgerows of monbretia, fuschia, buttercups, vetch and other sweet wildflowers. We had another fuel stop in Dingle and then car 2 decided to go home via Dunnes for tea. As we left Dingle we passed a long queue outside a small white building. John explained that it was not a queue for bingo but a queue to attend the wake of a well known sports presenter Tommy Gorman. There was a police road block guarding the way it was obviously only going to get busier. In fact it was on the news on RTE1 when we got home.

John decided we could have one more stop to see Inch Beach on our way back. Another stunning stretch of sand with surf sparkling in the late afternoon sun, mountains as a backdrop and the sun shining through the clouds which were rolling in. We took a few snaps and then dashed back to the car as it started to rain.

It had been another lovely day with John as our excellent and kind guide. But all that driving and chatting was exhausting and broken, I hauled myself into the hot tub to recover. I love a hot tub in the rain. 😁

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The Beara Penninsula drive

We woke up the next morning to wind and rain and so naturally this was the day to set off on another huge drive (80miles) around the wild and untamed Beara Penninsula. This involved getting back to the start point at Kenmare which, using the faster roads is still and hour and 15 mins away.

There is a handy leaflet describing the best places to stop but we were keen to do it at a slightly more relaxed pace today as there was no rush to get back for football.

We started near Bonane at the heritage centre which has been created by the locals. This involved a slog up a steep path until we reached the hill fort and stone circle. There were lots of wild flowers and ferns around and the views would have been nice if it hadn’t been so murky. One of the main attractions of the site was a huge, monolith standing stone at a jaunty angle. It turned out that this was just a trick of perspective in the promotional photos as it was actually only just above my knee. It was easy to image the little Stone Age village living up here but Jane wasn’t impressed by the site and rather wished she’d stayed in the car. At least they had a very modern portaloo with a very acceptable seat above the long drop!

Next stop proved very popular with all the cats. It was a boutique chocolate maker called Lorge Choclatier. They sold individual handmade chocolates and they tasted fab so we each bought a little selection for later.

Now we drove over the Cana Pass which was steep and narrow and at one point involved driving through 3 rock tunnels which was fun. We drove on down to Glengarriff which was busy with tourists and cyclists doing the Ring of Beara cycle ride. We all seemed to head to the one coffee stop, The Sugarloaf Cafe. Another splendid place where Jane and I shared a toasted sandwich and a cup of tea. I notice that the girls here had lovely Irish accents and were definitely enjoying the ‘craic’ as they worked.

After refreshments we walked down to the Blue Pool and the swimming spot but it wasn’t very blue today. The cute little boat that takes you over to the Italian gardens on Garnish Island. However, despite our ‘more relaxed approach’ , time was pressing on and so we gave this a miss instead starting our drive down the coast past pretty villages and beaches to Castletownbere. The pictures of this had promised pretty little fishing boats but actually the ones in the harbour were huge ocean going vessels , this is after all the centre of Ireland’s white fishing fleet. We had a look round the pretty coloured shops of the village and then were off again.

Now we headed along to the far end of the Penninsula at Dursley Head. It was a mad drive along tiny lanes across a patchwork of green fields with views over the, by now, sparkling sea! Yes the sun had once again come out. At Dursey Point there is a cable car over to Dursey Island which is a Heath Robinson affair. It was very windy and I had to give Jane strict instructions not to go on it.

By now it was 5-30 and people were getting rather jaded. Now we just needed to drive back along the north/west side of the Penninsula! This was an amazing drive winding through huge elephant rocks along the real Wild Atlantic Way! The waves below us were crashing away and sometimes with no barrier at the roadside to stop us from falling off! I absolutely LOVED it!

However, we were still along way from home and our thoughts turned to food. We sped through the colourful villages of Allihies and Eyries (their artists would have to wait for another day!). Stress levels were rising as we didn’t really want to return to Kenmare to eat.

Joyce googled a place called Helen’s Bar in a village called Kilmacklloge. We got there by driving along a narrow road which felt as if we’d be driving into a posh hotel. At the end we emerged by the sea and a pier and there was Helen’s Bar. It was very busy in the car park and in the bar itself. The chance of 6 of us just rolling up to eat seemed highly unlikely. However, the wonderful Helen herself soon found us 2 tables to join together and the food was absolutely amazing. Fish n Chips, Scallops in batter and chips and yummy homemade apple pie. All was well with the world once more. What a really special place.

Now only an hour and a half to get home and Joyce’s turn to drive!

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The Ring of Kerry

After an evening BBQ and a session in the hot tub in the sunshine we went to bed excited about our trip the next day. Unfortunately, whilst the new unbobbly sheet was an improvement, I still couldn’t sleep very well. It was very hot in this modern house and I woke up with the dawn chorus at about 4-30am…

We had decided to do the The Ring of Kerry in a day despite the fact that my guide book says the slower you do it the better. In fact I’d definitely read somewhere that it was best to take 4 days. Slightly concerned about this I’d plotted how long it would take to drive between the different stopping points and it added up to roughly 4 hours. We would have plenty of daylight and the only time limit that we were on was that Jane and I needed to be back for the England Euros game at 8pm.

We set off at 9am and the weather was very poor. No rain was forecast but it appeared to be one of those days when we were just sat in the middle of the cloud with constant drizzle. Our first stop was about an hour away, The Kerry Bog Village. We had wondered whether we’d need extra time here and the line of about 10 coaches indicated that it was indeed very popular. The reception staff were very Irish and friendly and we were soon inside this authentic 18th/19th century Irish village. However, it is literally a collection of cottages with old tut inside. There is no explanation of anything and we came away feeling very uneducated. There was a random collection of animals and Pam is going to report them to the ISPCA for the conditions in which their sad looking bog ponies and bored Irish wolfhounds were being kept. There was, of course, the obligatory shop full of green souvenir tat which I’m sure was very popular with the American college kids.

Onwards…..next stop was Rossbeigh Strand which is a finger of pebbles that sticks out into Dingle Bay with magnificent views. It was nice but although we had emerged from the cloud it was still fairly murky. Pam and I managed to find 5 tiny pieces of sea glass between us so we were happy!

On the way to our next destination we stopped at Mountain Stage Viewpoint -still cloudy but with glimmers of sunshine on the Dingle Peninsula. We arrived at Cahershiveen at about midday and went down to the marina which was quite pretty with the lovely green waters. It was around about now that certain members of the group had a sudden and urgent requirement for a cup of tea and maybe…something to eat. Like NOW! So we went back out to the town where we found the rather marvelous Lazy Cat Cafe. This was a trendy Ukrainian Cafe with fabulous scones and cakes and a decent flat white. Hurrah. Pam’s Napoleon cake in particular was very good!

After refreshments we went back across the bridge in search of Ballycarbery Castle down by WhiteStrand Beach. By now the sun was fully out along with the water in the estuary. It was very lovely even though we couldn’t actually visit the ruined castle. Apparently it once belonged to the McCarthy clan and is still privately owned. We also found the Cahergall Ring Fort which a nice lady at the marina had said was a ‘must’. It was built around 600AD with walls 6m high and 3 m wide! Of course we had to climb up it although it was rather scary, the views from the top were fantastic!! The other highlight here was the man sitting on the back of his van showing passersby his lamb. Presumably the idea is that you take an interest , have your photo taken with the lamb for which he charges you a few Euros and if you don’t pay he bundles you into the back of the van and holds you for ransom. We didn’t fall for his Irish tricks.

By now it was starting to feel like we weren’t making progress fast enough…but we still wanted to visit Valentia Island. It was a lovely drive down the narrow lane to the harbour at Reenard Point where we caught the car ferry the short distance (5mins) to Knightstown on the island. It was a very pretty harbour with great views all the way back to the mountains in the mainland.

But crack on we must as we sped directly along to Portmagee where a bridge takes you back across to the mainland. I didn’t even stop at the farm offering their own ice cream and Pam didn’t spend long in the Skellig Experience visitor centre as it’s displays focused on puffins and not Star Wars (which had partly been filmed on the Skellig Islands). We took a few photos of the colourful harbour at Portmagee and then drove through on our way upto Kerry Cliffs.

Now there were a lot of people parked up here and the signs suggested that it took just 10mins to walk up to the cliffs but that you needed to spend an hour here. Hm…..did we have time to do this……..? Well I’m very glad we did because the cliffs were an easy walk and it was spectacular with views over the 1000ft cliffs and the wild Atlantic below as well as the pointy Skellig Islands.

By now time was pressing on as it was about 3-30pm. We needed a new plan…..those of us who wanted to watch football (Jane and Julie) would need to really start to hack it, whilst everyone else could go at a more leisurely pace. So we split up in the cars, Jane and I still determined to complete the Ring of Kerry route which according to my calculations would still take nearly 3 hours!!!

The rest of the driving went by in a bit of a blur but it was spectacular with climbs up giant mountains and cliffs at Coomanispic, beautiful turquoise bays at Derrynane and long, long stretches of road all the way to Sneem where we finally decided to stop for tea. We went into D Oshea’s Bar which is a colourful pinky purple colour and it was very smart inside with views out the back over the estuary. Jane enjoyed her first pint of Guinness and Colcannon and Ham whilst I had a little half of red ale and sausage and mash! Perfect and after making friends with the American locals at the next table we felt ready for the final stretch of our journey. Meanwhile Pam, Adrian, Joyce and Enid had also arrived in Sneem and were eating a seafood platter at The Stone House.

It was a beautiful evening as we continued miles along by the sea to Kenmare and then up into the mountains of the Killarney National Park. By now the roads were relatively quiet and we couldn’t resist stopping at various viewpoints of Moll’s Gap and Ladies View. We were due to come back here the next day…but what if it was raining?!! It was truly beautiful and a shame to be driving past it all at rally driving speeds. Hey ho…looking forward to doing it at a slower pace tomorrow.

We drove through Killarney itself, bypassing the town centre. It seemed to be a very big town and very ‘corporate’ looking. I’m glad we are not staying there….

Now we were back on the familiar N22 and I drove at 120kmph all the way back to Tralee, only slowing down for white vans parked at the roadside in case they were doing speed checks. I swerved into the drive at 8-07pm. We hadn’t missed much and naturally England went onto have a dismal 0-0 draw with Slovenia. Thank goodness we’d taken the opportunity to stop and look at the views in the way home!

The others arrived back at half time having stopped at all of the viewpoints along the way as they’d recovered from their earlier scenic overload!

My recommendation….don’t try and do the Ring of Kerry in a day. At least plan to stop one night somewhere half way along…Derrynane Beach would probably be top of my list.

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