Posts Tagged With: Lake Garda

Garda to Bardolino Walk

Posted on September 15, 2024 by julieallen36

The next day we woke up unreasonably early to make sure that we could catch the 8-55 ferry to Garda. The timetable was somewhat confusing with some up and down lines on it and in the event we didn’t stop at places listed and landed at Garda after only stopping at Sirmione first!

It was a dull day and cold enough even for me to have to wear long trousers and my fleece! We arrived in Garda at 10am and the place was only just opening upon this chilly Saturday. There was a market along the waterfront which we visited briefly before diving into the network of alleys in the old town. There were lots of tourist tut shops but we were most interested in those selling scarves. We’ve just read that the temperature in St Moritz, where we are due to visit later in the week, is going to be 0 degrees C!!!

Next we walked along the walkway beside the lake all the way to Bardolino. It’s only about a mile but was very very busy with German cyclists and various other joggers and walkers. It was all a bit hectic and Jane was not really feeling it walking at a strangely slow pace which I can’t cope with! Eventually, we stopped for a coffee and I did a little sketch of the lakeside scene. After this we passed a couple of big motorhome sites which were incredibly busy and cramped. Finally, we arrived in Bardolino where clearly all the bikers, campers and their dogs had been heading. It was ridiculously busy. This was Saturday and everyone had come here for lunch and their Aperol Spritz! It was over-whelming and we couldn’t wait to escape. Unfortunately, it turned out that our ferry tickets only allowed us to go straight to Desenzano, no changing ferries so we were stuck until 3-25 and it was only 1-30. This meant only one thing , we’d have to have lunch here in the madness! Jane quickly researched the best places for lunch and we soon found it. A very busy restaurant called La Cantinetta and had a nice lunch , Jane had dirty moules , and we were even given a freebie mini Aperol Spritz!! The time soon flew by and we were on the ferry home before we knew it. As we caught the ferry the sun had come out but as we got further offshore the wind really picked up and the white horses were rather impressive. It was around about now that I began to question my love of a ferry ride as we seemed to struggle to make any progress in the gusty wind!

Anyway, we made it back to Desenzano for about 5-10pm and made tracks upto the Castello where there was an exhibition of Andy Warhols work. It was quite a climb up to the castle and its tower but the exhibition of 50+ works was well worth it, with many loaned from private collections. The views from up here were also very rewarding in the evening light. After this, we strolled home and decided that Desenzano was a really lovely place to stay and definitely more Italian accents here. I was absolutely exhausted when we got back and took a dip in the heated pool in the garden beneath our room. It was perfect surrounded by pine and Cypress trees. A nice end to a bit of an odd day.

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Italy, Lake Garda | Leave a comment

I love a ferry I do!

Posted on September 13, 2024 by julieallen36

Luckily when we woke up this morning it was all a bit calmer. In fact I was woken up to the sound of someone hoovering up pine needles in the garden to tidy up after last nights storm!

We had a lazy breakfast and decided on catching the 11-30 ferry from Desenzano to Sirmione. Any day that begins with a ferry ride is going to be a good one in my book, so I was looking forward to this trip. The weather was still a bit grey but with some promising blue bits -so I went for the optimistic shorts and T-shirts, whereas most people, Jane included, opted for Winter attire. Whilst we waited for the ferry we had a little mooch around Desenzano particularly the pretty little safe harbour for small boats which is picturesque and surrounded by cafes.

When it was time to board we joined a queue and then boarded the large ferry and climbed to the top for maximum views outside. The trip only takes 20 mins and the scenery is lovely. Lake Garda is dauntingly large and everything is really at a distance but the layered mountains are spectacular.

We landed in Sirmione and it was immediately very very busy. We followed the crowds and then vaguely went off in the direction of the tip of the Penninsula. We walked along down by the water admiring the views especially the impressive Cypress trees. We reached a ‘beach’ and Lido where there was a cantina so we stopped for a coffee. There were loads of sparrows around waiting for crumbs , even though we actually didn’t have any!

We watched as people jumped onto a particular rock to have their photos taken with the milky-blue lake in the background. After our coffee we went down there and had our photos taken by two very glamorous Swedes. The glamour girl took about 20 photos of us and then Jane returned the favour. Jane handed back their camera saying ‘I only took two as you looked gorgeous in both! ‘.

We followed the path along but it soon seemed to disappear on the rocks. After gathering some ‘sea glass’ and ancient pottery we made our way up to the Roman archaeological site of The Grottoes of Catullus. These are pretty expansive and spectacular. Imagine a huge Roman villa complex on this site overlooking Lake Garda. Wow! I downloaded a leaflet explaining more about it but we soon lost interest as we instead skipped about taking pictures of the all the views! Still we did visit the Museo too and had a quick look at the artefacts.

After our visit here which really was nice, quiet and worthwhile it was time for lunch. We wandered back into the village and found a free table in a restaurant right next to the most Instagrammable Bourganvilla in Sirmione! It was a perfect place for me to do a quick pencil sketch whilst we had a bit to eat and a cold one.

Now we needed to pay for lunch, so it was time to go to the Scaliger Castillo and climb 146 steps up to the top of the East Tower. It is actually an easy climb and the 360 degree views are outstanding.

We’d planned to reward ourselves with an ice cream from the ‘best gelataria’ in Sirmione but realised that the next ferry would be leaving in 6 mins. By now it was decidedly chilly and we didn’t fancy the wait for the next one in an hour and a half, so we skedaddled back to the ferry port and were chuffed to join the queue as the ferry hadn’t even yet arrived. Hurrah!

Back at the hotel it was nice to warm up and relax a bit and I was able to FaceTime Mum again. After a shower to freshen up we went out to the Mexican which Jane had found on TripAdvisor. It was actually a mile down the road at Porti Di Riveltella. Benjamin on reception (the one with the perfect English) recommended that we walk along by the lakeside as it was very safe. We followed his advice and it was lovely as the sunset behind us and the mountains and lake turned a pink colour.

The ‘El Mexico’ restaurant was fab and we had great service, including the lady whizzing off on her Vespa to go back home and pick up a bottle of Bardolino for us as they’d run out!! The food was great too especially the churros to finish it off! All we had to do now was walk home again by the main road. It seems they don’t really go in for taxis around here and quite clearly nobody walks by the main road! Anyway, despite the fellow who looked like he’d just got off a commuter train in London, being very confused about where Desenzano was, we got home safely after a very lovely day. More ferry rides tomorrow too!

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Italy, Lake Garda, Sirmione | Leave a comment

Race Across … Northern Italy

Posted on September 11, 2024 by julieallen36

Today it was time to move on and so we were up early to finish packing and then down for an early breakfast.

After checking out it was time for our Water Taxi ride over to the train station. This wasn’t part of our organised trip but we’d agreed on this little luxury rather than having to drag our huge cases to the Water Bus station. The taxi driver had long flowing golden locks and this alone was worth the cost, along with the fact that we got to stand up in the back all the way along the Grand Canal for one more time.

When we arrived at the station, which is right on the Grand Canal, it was terribly busy with a fabulous dome church just opposite. It has to be the most impressive station front in the world. We were however, one hour early and there was absolutely nowhere to sit. All of the ‘relaxing’ cafes offer only standup service and there were about 4 seats for general passengers on the concourse. Eventually , we did find two seats outside near platforms 14-18 where we waited for the boards to show our platform.

We were catching the 10:48 FrecciaRossa to Desenzano with a final destination of Milan. It’s a bullet train and would take 1hr 21mins to cover the 100 miles. Eventually our platform was announced and off we went to platform 9 where we boarded. We were still early and the coach was virtually empty. However, the luggage rack was full with tiny cases and there was nowhere to put our huge cases. We dragged them into the carriage blocking the aisle and causing chaos as there was nowhere to put them and nobody could move. There are overhead racks but our cases are way too big and heavy to get up there. Jane pointed out quite loudly that the problem was that people had put their small cases in the luggage rack instead of in the overhead racks. Everyone heard and gradually owned up to their errors as they jumped up to start moving their bags to the overhead space and then kindly putting ours in the luggage rack. It was all very stressful.

It made me realise that maybe our idea of entering Race Across the World might not be such a great one. Clearly we’d fail on two counts right here. Firstly, our inability to travel without anything but a ridiculously huge and heavy bag and secondly my anxiety levels at even the simplest of journeys. However, on the plus side we have Jane’s ability to get 10 people to leap up and run about to help us and my own skill set…which I’m struggling to work out what that is…hold on…..oh yes….the ability stand around with an inane smile on my face apologising to everyone and saying ‘Grazie’ whilst everyone cedes to Jane’s demands. Honestly, I think we’d win.

Meanwhile back on the train. I have to say it was very smart, air conditioned and it left absolutely bang on time as did all the other trains whilst we were watching. Onboard the nice train manager gave us free snacks, water and even a face wipe. Luxury.

The train zoomed past the lagoon , heavy industry, fields of corn and miles of concrete wall. Eventually the hills appeared then the mountains. The train stopped at a list of stations straight out of Shakespeares finest plays. Merchant of Venice, Taming of the Shrew (Padua/Padova), Romeo and Juliet and Two Gentlemen of …Verona before eventually arriving in Desenzano.

We lugged our bags off the train and went down in the lift to the front of the station. There were no taxis apparent which I’d been warned about so we agreed to walk the 17mins downhill to our hotel. This was very straightforward but did take a little longer. I’m sure we looked like the paupers of Padua, when we arrived looking a bit hot and bothered. In contrast, there was a beautiful yellow Ferrari parked up outside the hotel! Nevertheless, they let us in and checked us into our room which is lovely. We explored the 4th floor where there is a hot tub with views over the lake and then settled in for an afternoon by the non heated pool in the lush gardens. It was perfect and just what we needed after the madness of Venice!

In the evening we strolled into Desenzano itself and found a fab restaurant for dinner. It began to rain as we arrived and then had a mighty downpour. Luckily it had finished by the time we left to walk home. The weather app had kept changing its mind and we were totally unprepared for a downpour so got lucky.

Tomorrow it is due to rain most of the day so we think we may venture back on the train to Verona. Let’s see.