Yes today would be another trip exploring outside Tokyo and involved catching the train from Asakusa Station to Nikko. It meant another early start and again we were self guiding. Mike, our Travel Agent, had provided incredibly detailed instructions on how to get to the right station and this was extremely helpful as Asakusa station is a warren of tunnels and exits! We found our way without problem and were soon standing on the platform waiting for our Liberty Kegon 13 train to be readied!
This involves a team of very smartly dressed folk in bibs and Peaky Blinder caps entering the carriages and hoovering, cleaning windows, turning the chairs to face the direction of travel, cleaning the lovely toilets and generally making it spotless for our journey. As they leave the train in a co-ordinated exit they all saluted each other and gave us a deep bow as we entered the carriage. Wow! Inside the carriage was way better than first class experience back home with really comfy big seats, free WiFi and a train driver who walked proudly past like the Captain of a plane.
As passengers boarded they were all very quite a respectful. No one talks much, using the phone is forbidden and even the sign on the back of my seat pretty much summed up what I’ve discovered about Japanese culture:
Please return the tray to the upright position gently so as not to disturb those around you.
Oh yes, I liked this and it’s not even a Shinkansen (Bullet Train). Just a bog standard Limited Express train! As we left Tokyo we travelled through her suburbs where it felt like there was just a bit more space for the city to breathe. Although the houses were still quite tightly packed, the high rises had disappeared and in the sunshine it all looked rather pleasant.
As we got further out we passed into more rural areas with orange trees and apples trees, old men hand digging their neat and tidy plots of cabbages, greenhouses and people on bicycles and in their funny little noddy vans. There was even a fishing lake with about 20 men fishing around its edge. I felt as if I was existing in a perfect model railway scene!
The journey took 2 hours and finally we arrived in Nikko which was busy with tourists. This place is a UNESCO World Heritage site with everyone coming to visit the incredible Toshogu Shrine. It’s a really impressive site dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu who was the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate which ruled Japan for 250 years until 1868. Unlike most of Japan’s shrines and temples this place is incredibly ornate with numerous buildings and gates decorated in wooden carvings and paintings and many of them covered in gold leaf. It was very busy but because it’s so large it never felt particularly crowded , except where there was a queue to see the ‘Sleeping Cat’ statue which we didn’t bother with!
After this our other aim for the day was to visit the Kanmangafuchi Abyss which is a volcanic gorge through which the River Daiya carves its way through the smooth basalt rocks. However, although this was lovely the main reason to visit is to see the ancient line up of 70 Bake ‘Ghost’ Jizo. These are the little stone statues or Bodhisattva who wear bright red bibs and knitted berets provided by locals. They apparently protect women, travellers and the souls of deceased children. Their name comes from the local rumour that says that no matter how many times you try to count them , you’ll never get the same number twice!
By now we were cold and hungry as we walked back into town a little bit ‘hangry’. We stopped for a quick Nikko tart ( v nice custard pie) and then bought some snacks for the train home in Family Mart. We also had time for a coffee and piece of cheesecake in the quaint old coffee shop next to the station. This warmed us up ready for the ride back to Asakusa.
We got back to the hotel and just in time for our restaurant booking nearby. Tonight we finally went traditional Japanese as between us we ate Teriyaki chicken, squid tempura, crispy rice ball, yakitori and something called Nang Bang chicken that Joyce ordered! Now who was it that ordered a side of French fries I wonder……
Back at the hotel it was time to get organised to send our suitcases forward as we can’t take them on the Shinkansen. Goodness only knows when we’ll see those again as it was quite a phaff!!
Tokyo and beyond has been full on but great. Next stop Yudanaka Onsen up in the Japanese Alps.
