On Sunday we moved on to our next stop which is Yudanaka Onsen up in the Japanese Alps. This involved our first experience of the Shinkansen ‘Bullet’ Train as we caught the Hakutaka 559 from Tokyo Station to Nagano and then a local train onto Yudanaka.
Once again, we had v detailed instructions on how to negotiate the various trains and platform/station changes and it all went very smoothly. Unlike yesterday, we didn’t need to ask anyone for guidance. This was lucky as I forgot to tell you what happened when I asked a nice man how to get to somewhere yesterday. He basically stopped what he was doing and where he was going and lead us down into the station to show us the way! It was all a bit embarrassing but very lovely.
The Shinkansen area of Tokyo Station was incredibly busy but once on the platform we stood in the appropriate boxes (yellow= 1st train, green= 2nd train), in an orderly queue, waiting for our train to arrive. The signs on the platform tell you exactly where to stand for your carriage – it works like a dream. Similarly, other things that we like here about the trains are that they tell you which side of the train the doors will open and they not only tell you which stop is next but also the one after that. So helpful.
It was exciting to see various Bullet Trains pulling into the platforms – they’re futuristic shape being quite a sight. Anyway, obviously the Shinkansen are legendary for being on time so when ours left 4 minutes late, a day of mourning for this national disgrace was declared! The train itself I would describe as ‘functional’, nowhere near as plush as yesterday’s train but at least they had a trolley service. As we got further away from Tokyo the train really sped up but it was incredibly smooth and quiet and I had none of the feeling of hurtling through space that I sometimes get on a plane.
One and a half hours later we arrived in Nagano and then swapped trains. Nagano is where the 1998 Winter Olympics were held and it seems like quite a smart town. In the station we entered the food hall of Midori Shopping Mall. There was a fabulous looking patisserie but what really caught our eye was a sign that said ‘Fruit and Bread’. What could be wrong with that? Nothing it turns out as we each purchased our choice of Fruit Sandwich. Joyce and I chose the classic mandarin, kiwi, banana and strawberry sandwich. Jane had strawberry, banana and nut caramel and Enid chose Blueberry Cheesecake. They’re made with white bread and have a filling of custard and whipped cream as well as your fruit. We ate this on the local train to Yudanaka. They really shouldn’t work but I’m here to tell you that they definitely do!
This local train was very joyous with a conductor announcing in a very jolly voice at every station that we were onboard the Snow Monkey Express. Hurrah! We travelled through some beautiful countryside again with a snow capped mountain backdrop and Autumn colours as we got closer to our destination.
At the tiny station some lovely music played as we exited the train. I really do think that this would be a nice thing to introduce at my old commuter stations. Our hotel provided a courtesy bus to carry us up the road a short distance. The hotel is called Bido No Yado. It looks from the outside like any normal 5 storey hotel but inside it’s a traditional ‘Ryokan’ with some exceptions.
Our room was absolutely huge with a separate area with tatami mats and low table for our tea ceremonies. Our bedroom was actually western style beds much more comfortable than sleeping on the floor! The walls had bamboo and paper partitions and it was all very tasteful. You are provided with kimonos to wear throughout the hotel. We had to look at You Tube to find out how to wear them but I think Jane did a cracking job! Then you are given some very odd fitting slippers to wear plus of course, your toilet slippers for the smallest room!
Yudanaka is an ‘Onsen’ or hot springs town and our hotel had its own facilities. We had great fun getting dressed up in our Kimonos and decided to use the private onsen up on the rooftop. There’s a full onsen facility as well in the hotel but we decided to go for the private version as you do need to go naked to use them. It was lovely and hot as we watched the sun go down over the mountains dipping in and out of the huge ceramic pot to cool down, which doesn’t take long as it’s very nippy up here in the Alps!
The next Ryokan experience would be the food but I feel that needs a post all of its own!
